814 replies to this topic

[DiLeMa]

Morda ve katera na pamet, če so kakšne kreme za obraz Aubrey Organics komedogene?

Sem skor 100%, da ni nobena komedogena.

[nanka]

a niso naravna olja in masla komedogena?

[sonchika]

Ne nujno vsa. Lanolin je K, kaj drugega pa že ne.

[nanka]

nekje sem našla nek čuden seznam komedogenih snovi, med katerimi so bila tut mandljevo, olivno, jojobino olje in še mnoga druga. ta seznam torej ni pravi ane?

kokosovo olje pa je komedogeno, če se ne motim

[sonchika]

Ja, kokosovo je res K. Sem ga izpustila. Za ona druga olja pa ne vem. Nekateri seznami so tako dolgi, da napišejo na njih skoraj vse možne sestavine.

[vrana]

Je tale sestavina potem lahko komedogena: kremna baza iz kokosovih maščobnih kislin ?

[sonchika]

Meni se niti ne sanja, katera snov je to po INCI nomenklaturi. To me že samo muči nekaj časa.

[Padme]

Tole sem najdla na netu, glede sestavin v Aubrey:

To answer your question, let us use Aubrey's Rose Hip Moisturizing Cream as an example. The ingredients listed are: Coconut Fatty Acid Cream Base, Organic Aloe Vera, Horsetail Extract, Coltsfoot Extract, Coneflower Extract, Organic Rosa Mosqueta® Rose Hip Seed Oil, Calendula Extract, Sweet Almond Oil, St. John's Wort Oil, Nettle Extract, Aubrey's Preservative (Citrus Seed Extract, Vitamins A, C and E), Bitter Almond Oil.

Aubrey's website claims that Citrus Seed Extract -- Citrus paradise, the extract from grapefruit seeds has a strong antimicrobial that gives protection against bacteria and fungi. However, Wikipedia, the free internet encyclopedia, quotes several reputable sources and states: Although grape seed extract (GSE) is promoted as a highly effective plant-based preservative by some natural personal care manufacturers, studies indicate the universal antimicrobial activity associated with GSE preparations is merely due to the combination with synthetic preservation. Confusing? You bet! I decided to get to the bottom of this conundrum!

I asked several cosmetic chemists to take a look at some of the listed ingredients that the above mentioned companies use. This is the unified answer I received:
"It seems unlikely that Aubrey is able to preserve using only vitamins, we suspect that within the Coconut Fatty Acid Cream Base there may be a preservative. This is not a clear label copy."

I've been pestering Aubrey's for a month because I wanted to find out for sure. Finally, I received an answer: Natural Grain Alcohol (ethanol) is also a component of the coconut fatty acid cream base.

The definition from Wikipedia explains: Ethanol, also known as ethyl alcohol or grain alcohol, is a flammable, colorless, mildly toxic chemical compound with a distinctive perfume-like odor, and is the alcohol found in alcoholic beverages. In common usage, it is often referred to simply as alcohol."

The personnel at Dr. Hauschka's Skin Care were very cooperative. In some of Dr. Hauschka products, Benzyl Benzoate is the preservative. This colorless liquid is formally the condensation product of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. Their Daily Revitalizing Eye Cream could be preserved with the benzyl alcohol in combination with Glycerin. Cosmetic products with any prolonged shelf life require some sort of preservative and I still believe that the Caprylol Glycine (I use it in my cream) is a safe and quality preservative.

My own research indicated this preservative was the best. I have now discovered that Caprylol Glycine is the very same preservative Dr. Hauschka Skin Care uses in some of their products. This is what they say: "The amino acid glycine and the fatty acid caprine from coconut oil are combined by simple processes creating an emulsifier and stabilizer with anti-microbial properties. Caprylol glycine is non-irritating and helps maintain the skin's acid mantle (protection layer)."

Don't get me wrong; I believe the two companies you mentioned are very good! And if you are satisfied with their products, I would encourage you to continue using them. All I am saying is that they do in fact use "the laboratory produced preservative". If you imagine they obtain vitamin C by squeezing lemon juice or getting beta carotene straight from an organic carrot, think again. Consider this: a plant food in its pure form isn't stable. Just think of how long your freshly squeezed juice lasts in your refrigerator. And how quickly it would go bad if you left it sitting on the counter in your bathroom!

In Aubrey's products "Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract and Beta-Carotene (Vitamin A) are combined for the preservative." The above mentioned fruits and vegetables have these preservatives, but it does not prevent them from going bad in a few days even in the refrigerator. Something has to be done to stabilize them.

Extracting the active, beneficial component from the plant almost always requires a process that is synthetically derived (such as obtaining genistein from soy). Further, these extracts are far more stable than the whole food. In cosmetic production, raw materials must be cleaned or purified by mechanical means such as bleaching clay, filtration, natural solvents or heat. Often they are chemically altered by oxidation or hydrolysis.

The reality is that natural or plant-based preservatives have rather poor anti-microbial or anti-fungal properties. To test the stability of a cream sample, the company usually places a jar of the product in an oven at 40 degrees C, or 104 F (this the optimum temperature for microbial life to proliferate) for several weeks and test for any signs of mold. With no preservative, in a short time, the mold begins to grow! Only after I saw it with my own eyes did I finally capitulate to the idea of using a preservative. If the cosmetic product is contaminated, skin complications would be a serious concern.

[Fluffy The Stud Eater]

Če je kremna baza iz kokosovih maščobnih kislin komedogena, potem so tako vse kreme od Aubrey Organics komedogene, ker jo imajo takorekoč vse na 1. mestu sestavin.

[DiLeMa]

Meni se po nobeni Aubrey Organics kremi ni spustil niti eden sam, samcati mozolj ali ogrc, pa sem izjemno občutljiva na komedogene sestavine in redno uporabljam njihove kreme zdej že zihr ene 4 mesece.

[Fluffy The Stud Eater]

Jaz pa moram povedat, da sem dobila nek izbruh piščajev in podkožnih mozoljev na bradi.
In kar je res, je res - ko sem uporabljala od Vichy-ja Nutrilogie in Thermal S Mat (sploh slednji je alko bomba, ampak hej, tudi od Lavere imajo takorekoč vse kreme na drugem mestu alkohol), sem mela popolno kožo. Odkar pa probam čimbolj prešaltat na naravno kozmetiko, mam pa skos neke probleme (mislim, nimam zdaj ono ful, ampak opazim razliko). Tak da sem v rahli dilemi - uporabljat sestavinsko kvalitetnejšo in naravno kozmetiko, pa met ne tako lepe kože... al pa uporabljat bolj kemično, pa met takorekoč zretuširano kožo. Hm.

[Braunkopf]

Zretuširana koža.

[Fluffy The Stud Eater]

Tudi jaz čedalje bolj razmišljam o tem ej...

[Braunkopf]

Ja, lej, uporabljaj tisto kar ti bolj paše na kožo, če je to Vichy, ali kaj tretjega, pa naj bo.

[DiLeMa]

Valda je pomembno uporabljat čimbolj naravno in kvalitetno, ampak četudi je naravno in kvalitetno, ni rečeno, da bo vsem ustrezalo. Pač na koncu se odločiš za tisto, kar tebi več pomeni, v tem primeru tud jaz zase vem, da raje uporabljam kremo slabše kvalitete, če mi naredi super kožo, kot pa nekaj full naravnega in super, pa da mi ne ustreza in imam čudno kožo. Imam pa pač to srečo, da dejansko imam po naravnih kremah lepšo kožo ...

Zdle imam sicer za čez dan od Estee Lauder, ne uporabljam dovolj dolgo, da bi konkretno poročala, ampak meni kožo full matira (imam mešan tip in se dost svetim po nosu in čelu), pa ob enem niti malo se izsuši, lepo navlaži in naredi krasno polt. Ima pa na 2. mestu slab alkohol, ampak se ne čuti, pa potem naprej so fajn sestavine. No, ne upam še za sveto trdit kako in kaj, ker se jo komaj pred kratkim začela uporabljat ...

[Fluffy The Stud Eater]

Ja jaz sem se pač začela bolj nagibati k naravni kozmetiki, ker smo ugotovile, kakšen bavbav je alkohol in kemija in kako so super naravne kreme, s polno AOK. Ampak k., če nimam lepe kože po temu. Mislim, da si bom kupla v prihodnjih dneh Thermal S Mat. Zdaj uporabljam ono od Aubrey Organics, ampak v času uporabe se mi je začelo to dogajat, tako da ne vem več no...

[pinga]

jenna, js sm mela isto dilemo in sm se odločila za lepšo kožo. zdej uporabljam nivea visage moisturising day care že kak mesc in mam ful lepo kožo. sestavin nism v detajle čekirala.

[Fluffy The Stud Eater]

Ja saj. Mam zadosti (dragega) iskanja popolne naravne kreme, če že preverjeno vem, katere mi ustrezajo. Rajši ta denar ponucam za kaj drugega... ni vse v kozmetiki! =)

[Eli]

Mislim, da si bom kupla v prihodnjih dneh Thermal S Mat.

Pa še obstaja? Ker jaz sem pred časom iskala eno iz te linije, pa so mi rekli, da se je vse prenovilo, in sem bla na konc čist zmedena. Ampak dopuščam možnost, da naše "lekarničarke" niso ravno najbolj informirane.

[Fluffy The Stud Eater]

Thermal FIX Mat je, pardon, saj res. Sem mela tudi že tega in je mislim da sestavinsko enak morda z rahlimi odstopanji. V glavnem, učinek je bil isti na mojo kožo.